10 secrets to a perfect lawn

1. Mow frequently with sharp blades- If your hopes include a green lawn, the key is frequent cutting, which forces it to grow thick and keep out weeds.

2. Don't go too short-"The lower you mow, the more herbicides and water you need, and then it becomes an intensive management system," says Pete Landschoot, professor of turf grass science at Penn State University.

3. Don't mow a wet lawn-  Mowing when the lawn is saturated with water will compact the soil so the roots can't breathe. When that happens, the grass dies and you'll see bald spots in your lawn.

4. Mulch clippings into the lawn- Leave the clippings where they fall. Not only do you eliminate all the bagging and dump trips, but the clippings fertilize the soil. Do not bag.

5. Water deeply -- and infrequently-  The No. 1 thing I see homeowners do is overwater. Here are signs it's time to water, according to Gaussoin:  The soil resists when you push a screwdriver or steel rod into the ground; Your grass gets a slightly blue tinge; and Footprints across the lawn remain compressed.

6. Avoid nighttime watering-   That means to let the grass dry out before the dew falls, since prolonged moisture invites disease. The best time to water is pre-dawn or early morning. You'll lose water to evaporation by sprinkling in midday.

7. Don't overdo the Fertilizer- Over-fertilizing stimulates very fast growth, thatch and the need for more mowing. Homeowners use far more fertilizer and pesticides than golf courses do. (Excess fertilizer also is bad for the environment: It washes into streams and lakes, clogging them with algae).

8. Don't mix your fertilizers- Regardless of which type of fertilizer you choose, stick with only one. Mixing natural and synthetic gives poor results.

9. Grow thick grass -- and stay on top of your weeds-  The best defense against pests -- weeds and diseases -- is to grow thick, vigorous turf.

10. Choose the right herbicide- If you decide you need extra help with weeds, there are two types of herbicides to choose from:

• "Pre-emergents" prevent weed seeds from germinating and are often applied once a year.
• "Post-emergents" are used after the weed is visible to control broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions and chickweed, or grassy pests such as crab grass, quack grass or even wild varieties of rye or bluegrass that aren't controlled by mowing or hand-pulling.